When discussing concentration camp Dora-Mittelbau in my latest book Along the Roads to Hell, I mentioned the Heeresversuchsanstalt (HVA) Peenemünde. Peenemünde is situated on the north-west corner of the German island Usedom in the Baltic Sea, close to the Polish border. Due to the excellent summer weather, Usedom is one of Germany’s major holiday destinations. The beaches and natural environment create excellent opportunities for nature and water sports recreation.
In 1936, the German army turned Peenemünde into a location for missile experiments. A whole new industrial complex emerged on the site, with offices, laboratories and workshops. In 1943, about 12,000 people worked here, secretly testing guided weapons, including the V1 and V2. Forced labour was provided by KZ-Arbeitslager Karlshagen I and II. Rocket scientist Wernher von Braun was the technical director of the complex. The fact that he had been a SS-Sturmbahnfüher and knew all of the terrible working conditions of the prisoners did not prevent him from becoming the father of the Apollo moon program. For the United States, the missile race with the Soviet Union took precedence.
The V1 or Fieseler Fi 103 was essentially a flying bomb, with all the features of an aircraft. Almost 8 metres long, it had two wings and was propelled by a jet engine. After launching, the engine stopped at a preset distance, taking the V1 downwards to explode on impact. In the period of June 1944 until April 1945, 12,000 V1s were launched. London was the main target and later also Antwerp when the port fell into Allied hands. The Aggregat 4 or V2 was the world’s first guided ballistic missile. The 14-metre-high rocket could reach a speed of more than 5,000 kilometres per hour and a height of 200 kilometres. Approximately 3,200 rockets were launched from different mobile installations in the period of September 1944 until March 1945. Again, London and Antwerp were the main targets.
The site at Peenemünde displays a replica V2 missile.
Given the direct connection between Peenemünde as test location for missiles and Dora-Mittelbau as the most important missile assembly site, I had to plan a visit of Usedom to explore another angle of the roads to hell. The opportunity arose when we were on holiday near Hamburg a few years ago. My wife decided not to go with me since she still remembered the horrors of our earlier visit to concentration camp Natzweiler-Struthof. Besides, it would be a day trip of 500 miles back and forth.
On a lovely summer morning I started for my journey to Peenemünde. The road towards Szczecin was surprisingly quiet, but when I approached the bridge to Usedom at Wolgast, I ended up in a large queue of holiday vehicles. Fortunately, the traffic dispersed quickly and when I reached Karlshagen, it was much calmer already. Despite the holiday atmosphere, the mood was set when I noticed the Memorial Site of Karlshagen at the right side of the road. It commemorated the victims of the Karlshagen concentration camps and the Allied bombing raids. In August 1943, 600 Allied bombers tried to destroy Peenemünde during Operation Hydra. It was a total failure, after a short delay the site was operational again. Most bombs hit the town of Karlshagen, causing civilian victims. Due to the attack, the army relocated the V1 and V2 production to Nordhausen. It was a gruesome twist of fate that the raid would become one of the main causes for the horrible suffering of the prisoners of Dora-Mittelbau in the dark tunnels of Mount Kohnstein.
Historisch-Technisches Museum Peenemünde
The main destination of my trip was the Historisch-Technisches Museum Peenemünde, located in the former power station. It was an excellent museum that documented who worked here, how these people lived and which missiles were tested. On the site around the enormous installations of the power station I noticed models of the V1 and V2, among other industrial remains. The roof of the station gave a wide view over the surrounding area. The actual test site was covered by a dense wood. Due to the risk of unexploded munitions, the location was sealed off and could only visited by a guided tour. I could also see the remains of the oxygen factory a few hundred metres away.
One of the few remaining structures of Karlshagen I.
After spending the afternoon in the museum, I decided to return home. Yet, when I passed the former test side, I noted an information panel near the woods. It appeared to be the location of Karlshagen I. Only a few structures of the concentration camp remained. It accommodated about 1,500 prisoners, of which 248 did not survive. Enough to think about during my long trip back home.
Michael Admiraal is the author of Along the Roads to Hell, published by Chiselbury.
